WEANING: Make sure that
the bird will be completely abundance weaned. Force weaned birds are an invitation
to problems. Weaning takes time. It is a labor of love and the most telling
expression of a sense of responsibility. NEVER buy from a breeder who is willing
to sell unweaned or force weaned birds. The story that weaning a baby bird will
help the "bonding" between you and the bird is unmitigated nonsense and a rumor
spread by those breeders who are trying to avoid the work it takes to properly
wean a parrot. A breeder selling unweaned or improperly weaned birds is irresponsible,
unethical, cruel and should be put out of business Š run! NEVER buy an unweaned
chick!
FLEDGING: A baby bird needs
to learn how to fly. This is important for his/her self confidence and mental
health. Although you probably should clip his wings, (for his/her safety), later,
he/she should be fledged first. Fledging a bird is the responsibility of the
breeder. If that is not happening, you just found a bad breeder--run!
SOCIALIZATION: In order
to fulfill their potential as the superior pets they can be, baby parrots must
be socialized. It means that they learn to be comfortable with changes, that
they accept new "flock members" without trouble, that they are comfortable in
changing environments and situations. If the bird is not properly socialized,
you found another bad breeder--run!
DIET: The proper diet for
parrots is a very important part of keeping them healthy and happy. Feeding
them exclusively seeds is not the way to achieve that. Their needs vary with
each species--it is the breederÕs responsibility to provide this diet as a part
of the abundance weaning process--it should ALWAYS include fresh fruits and
vegetables. If that is not the case, you met another bad breeder Š run!
CLEANLINESS: Take a look
at the place where your parrot comes from. Are the cages clean and large enough?
Is the water dish filled with fresh water? Is the diet correct? Are there toys
available in all cages? If the answer is no, you can be sure that the breeder
either doesn't know any better or doesn't care.--Run! Sally Blanchard has developed
a list of questions to qualify the breeder of your bird. They essentially cover
the issues mentioned. The problem with questions is that they also invite lying.
It is my opinion that a bad breeder will have no trouble lying to you. If you
canÕt find one in your neighborhood and you MUST do it via the telephone, get
references, names of previous customers and talk to them. The absolutely best
way to find a good breeder is to do it face-to-face Š and remember, you must
know what is important. In the final essence it is all your responsibility--and
the magic word is education. Be like Desi's Mom, not like Simon's--and remember,
you are getting a child. Don't support the abusers, help weed them out! Example: One day last year
a lady showed up on a Grey Chat--she was planning to get an African Grey and
she had questions. Lots of them--about cages, toys, diet, full spectrum lighting,
raising a baby, behavior modification--and she did not have a bird yet, not
even a breeder. She read and asked and checked--for about 6 months. Then she
went to look for a breeder. She found one, 200 miles away. She visited and liked
what she saw. She ordered the chick and visited again, almost every weekend.
Desi, her little TAG is now about a year old and she is the joy of the entire
family. She travels with them, talks up a storm--she is a happy, charming and
very, very bright companion. Everybody is a winner, especially Desi. She is
a winner because her Mom did everything the right way.
Example: I have a second
hand bird, an 8 year old Eclectus male, his name is Simon. His Mom surely loved
him, but she had absolutely no idea how to qualify the breeder, she never took
the time to learn and find out what was important for the well being of the
bird. Simon is one of the sweetest little guys I have ever seen--he is totally
dysfunctional and had literally plucked himself bare when I got him. He has
no idea that he is a bird. I love him with all my heart and am very sad that
he was cheated out of his full potential for "birdie happiness." He is still
dysfunctional. Some of the feathers are growing back, most of them never will.
Simon was the loser. Guess who did that to him??
Parrots have become the third most favorite pet in the United States. Exotic birds
are big business and it should not come as a surprise that lots of folks decided
to get a slice of this pie. The proliferation of breeders, with it the preponderance
of irresponsible, ignorant and greedy people is creating a huge problem. Sally
Blanchard calls it the "Poultrification of Parrots". The victims of this trend
are both, the parrot and the buyer. The buyer because he/she may very well end
up with a chick that is ill prepared to face a long life as a family member and
the bird because he/she will be very likely to end up with major physical, emotional
and behavioral problems. To most breeders the term ethics, morality and compassion
are replaced by just two words: PROFIT and GREED Anyone who has ever seen a parrot
stuck in a filthy cage with pain in his/her eyes, reminiscent of a child in purgatory
will share my anger, my frustration, my disgust. Ignorance and greed are the cause
for some of the worst acts of cruelty perpetrated on some of NatureÕs most precious,
unusual, beautiful and intelligent creatures. Don't become a participant in this
endless cycle of misery. EDUCATE YOURSELF AND HELP EDUCATE OTHERS, PLEASE! Cats
and dogs, when sold at the tender age of 8 to 12 weeks, are ready to be someone's
companion. (Even here we are all familiar with the abominations of "puppy mills"
spewing forth thousands of puppies which later end up in shelters and pounds).
Breeding and socializing psittacines is an entirely different matter.
Reason: First of all, cats and dogs have been bred to be human companions for
centuries. Their emotional and intellectual make-up is totally different from
parrots. They are a very long way from being the wild animals they used to be.
With them the task of housebreaking and obedience training is usually all it takes.
Not so with parrots. Parrots are still essentially wild animals. What is more,
they have an intelligence level of a dolphin or a five year old child, (their
brain to body ratio is that of a human), and they have a maturing pattern of a
human teenager. They must be taught to be able to function in their wild or human
"flock" environment. Bonnie Doan-Munro who wrote My Parrot, my Friend extensively
quotes renowned child psychologists in her advice about rearing parrot chicks,
and with good reason. In the wild, baby parrots are taught flock behavior by their
parents, aunts and uncles. It takes years. African Greys, Cockatoos and Macaws
have been observed still being fed up to the age of 2 years old. Where this is
neglected, the emotional development of the bird is stunted and it will eventually
develop serious behavioral problems which can express themselves in feather mutilation,
biting, screaming or anxiety. Caring for a parrot requires extensive knowledge.
Breeding parrots requires a real sense of responsibility for a truly unique creature.
It requires total familiarity with the emotional and dietary needs of the baby
chicks. Equally important, it also requires a thorough knowledge of the intrinsic
nature of parrots, not only as chicks, but during adolescence and maturity, as
well.
When buying a baby parrot, please remember that this cute little bundle of joy,
under the wrong circumstances, has all the potential to grow up to be anything
but cute. Remember that this little feathered person can get to be 80 years old,
outlive you and, under the right conditions supported by the breeders immorality
and your ignorance, will be sure to grow into a veritable monster--and end up
in a dark corner, a swap meet or a newspaper ad as "second hand" parrot, being
shoved from one "home" to the next. The responsibility that this does not happen
is the breeder's and yours alone. In order to minimize the chances for disaster,
(and a waste of your money), you must educate yourself before you buy a parrot.
Make sure he/she fits into your lifestyle and that you have the money to "support"
him/her. Then, and most importantly, find a good breeder. How to do that: First
of all, in order to know what is wrong, you obviously have to know what is right.
In order to know what is right, you must educate yourself before you embark on
your search. NEVER buy from a pet store unless you are absolutely sure that it
is reputable and that the birds it sells are also bred there. Otherwise you are
buying a "cat in the bag." NEVER, NEVER buy from companies like PetSmart or any
of the other mass merchandizing organizations. They are the biggest offenders
of the "Poultrification" concept. They incubate parrot eggs mechanically by the
thousands--then they gavage feed the chicks, (they use tubes and squirt a predetermined
amount of formula directly into the crop)--no proper weaning, no fledging, no
socialization Š they donÕt care for the birds or what happens to them once they
are pushed out of the door Š YOUÕLL pay the price, now AND later. NEVER buy from
a breeder who does not at least meet the qualifications listed below. AND--NEVER,
NEVER, NEVER buy a parrot on impulse--from anyone!
Keys to qualifying a breeder: